Cairo, (pronounced K-ro not Ki-ro) Illinois has a population of approx 2,000; at its zenith (during the Civil War), it had around the 50,000 mark. It was named after the Egyptian city as it lies at the confluence of two great rivers, the Ohio and the Mississippi. Many things lead to its decline (me obviously being an incredible expert having spent 3-4 hours there and reading a few articles on line). Obviously the rivers aren’t the commercial artery they once were and there was a great deal of strife in the 60s and 70s during the Civil rights era. As Fred explained to me (I’ll explain Fred in a bit) it lies further south than Virginia.
I’m not sure why I came here. I had seen it in a travel documentary and when I crossed the border into Illinois and saw the signpost, I was intrigued. The doco talked about it being the most depressing place in the US. I don’t know about that. It is undoubtedly a sad place, but mostly because of what it was and what it may have been.
I go to the local museum which used to be the Post Office, Customs House and Court House. I’m happily wandering around the exhibits when a voice, “CAN I HELP YOU”. A little voice responds “I’m sorry?” HOW DID YOU GET IN HERE”. Little voice “The front door”. “Oh, Oh did I leave that open? Ummmm. Do you want a tour?”
This was Fred, the local curator. He seems genuinely surprised that anyone would be here at this particular time. I gather he gets the occasional school group and is suitably prepared. Someone just interested – that’s weird! The museum is like the town – shambolic and fascinating. During the Civil war this was Grant’s HQ for six months and accordingly they have a lot of Grant stuff.
This Grant’s desk with all his stuff on it. Before Fred came in I could have sat in his chair, written in his diary, peed in his ink well. The reason this is blurry I dropped the camera and buggered it – but I was still able to take a picture of Fred:
Fred showed me the Port diary covering a few days during the Civil War, maps from the era (that were just lying at the bottom of a cabinet decayed and decaying further and the Court room (that had all the original furniture and fixtures) which wasn’t yet opened to the public. The Trust had plans to refurbish it, but it would take $60,000. $60,00 they don’t have. Despite Fred’s best efforts and I’m sure the Trust’s, things were going to rack and ruin. The heart breaking thing was that it could be magnificent, but it would need Cairo to come back and that isn’t going to happen.
Bowling Green, Kentucky (Go Hilltoppers): I go to watch the local farm team, the mighty Hotrods (a feeder team for the Tampa Bay something or another). They are playing the Western Michigan White Caps (Isn’t Michigan landlocked?). Sensational. Free to get in. Beer. Really good hot dogs. Baseball like Bull Durham. Kids swiping the mascot on the back of the head and running away giggling. Too good.
Golf: Paul Walker Golf Course 1044 Covington Ave Bowling Green, Kentucky. Ordinary Golf Course – Very Ordinary golfer. 100. Who was I kidding? I should have made this a putt putt golf tour or a darts tour.
• Give em hell Harry
• There is always a diner somewhere
50 States of golf 